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Eggers goes to Kona, day 3. Surfing.

October 13, 2012

Today was the best day yet. After a morning swim at the Kona Aquatic Center we hopped over to Denny’s for our QT2 Athlete breakfast. Our 26 QT2 athletes carbo loaded and got to share some mojo, and they are ready.

Charlie and I hit downtown Kona for a trip through the expo. I got to meet relentless Audra and Rachel Stanley. SO HAPPY to have met these ladies. I got to swing by the Fuel Belt tent and say hello to Vinu. Vinu and Fuel Belt have been an integral supporter of the fundraising efforts for Teens Living With Cancer. I can’t tell you how wonderful he’s been.

THEN…. came the best part of the day. Surfing. It was Chuck, his wife Michelle, Molly and I. Through a friend we hooked up with two fabulous instructors at Kona Mike’s. They were fabulous. First we took a surfing lesson, we learned how to stand up on the board. Here is Chuck (not to be confused with Charlie) demonstrating how it’s done.

That is SUPERIOR surfing form Chuck!

I had intended on bringing the Go Pro with me and wearing it. However…. it was too difficult for me to figure out how I would wear. So I left it in the car. Liberating to say the least.

I got ragdolled, I hung ten, and I did not see the green room. If you know what surf speak is, then you understand. If not…. you will forever wonder that the hell I mean. It means I am an actual surfer and I belong to an elite and secret group of people. Surfer people. Clearly, I am one of them.

I will tell you that after screaming at me “BEND YOUR KNEES! BEND YOUR KNEES! BEND YOUR KNEES!” my surfing teacher turned to his colleague and said “I don’t know how she is surfing sideways on her knees. I have never seen anyone do that before. Successfully.” Meaning…… I am the first in the world to perfect the art of knee surfing.

Trust me…. it’s better that there is no video evidence.

I thought the ocean was visible behind me. It’s not.

I will tell you that surf day was one of the best days I have had in my life. It’s been a while that I laughed so hard. The waves were big and small and medium. At one point a wave was coming, and it was a biggie one. Too big for us. Greg (our teacher) shouted…. “GET OFF THE BOARD, HEAD DOWN AND PRAY!!!!” I looked up, and it was one of three other times my life has flashed before me in a filmstrip like fashion.

But I lived. Clearly.

Being out in the middle of the ocean with the waves….. with an amazing group of friends and kick ass surfing instructors….. awesome doesn’t even cut it. It was more than that. I learned so much and none of it was about surfing either. The ocean is magnificent to say the least.

Afterwards we did a little hanging out and then…. we got ourselves over to the biggest party in town. The “Thank God I’m Not Racing Party.” Your admission and favor was the best medal I have ever owned. It’s also a belt buckle and a bottle opener.

We didn’t stay long, as fatigue has finally caught up with us. We have a long day tomorrow (which is really today if you are reading this early) and we needed to be rested.

There are many more Hawaiian adventures to be had. I can’t wait. I am feeling good. I am feeling inspired. I am feeling excited. I love it here. I love everything about it. I am having the time of my life.

I am also terribly homesick. Everything I do, everything I see…. every experience I have…… I am wishing Curt was here to share it with. I regret, and he does too, that he didn’t come. We are thinking about heading here next year, the week after the race. That would be absolutely amazing. I would love to out on a surfboard for three hours with him. We’d have so much fun. I am missing our son. Being able to Face Time has been a godsend. As much as I love to travel the minute I roll out of the driveway that hole in my heart begins to ache. That’s a good thing though!

Here are some more pictures of Hawaiian beauty!

This is the view from the condo at sunset

This is the Pier, where transition is.

Tomorrow is Ironman….. and we will be out in full force supporting our athletes.

Then…. it’s back to Hawaiian adventures. Monday will be the BIG adventure day. That’s the volcano day and the trip to the END OF THE WORLD!!!!!!!!!!!

Aloha!

 

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